Jean-Marc Brocard established himself in the village of Préhy, just to the south-west of Chablis, in 1973, shortly after marrying a vigneron’s daughter from St-Bris. Today the domaine, a mix of their own property and long-term farming contracts, covers 200 hectares, while Jean-Marc has handed over day-to-day responsibilities to his son Julien and son-in-law Frédéric Gueguen. Julien has been instrumental in converting the vineyards to biodynamic principles.

 Indeed a visit to the company’s headquarters in the village of Préhy is fascinating for the contrasting mix of a dynamic business sense, almost a feel of commercial hustle, and the passion for what is happening above and below the soil. Production covers Chablis in all its guises, most of the other appellations of the Auxerrois including St-Bris and a single-vineyard Irancy Mazelots, plus a range of three Bourgogne Blancs, from Jurassic, Portlandian and Kimmeridgian soils. The premier cru Chablis wines are mostly made in stainless steel, though Vau de Vey and Vaulorent, as well as the grands crus, are vinified and matured in large wooden ovals (foudres).